The previous day it had poured in Palermo, and the forecast for the next day was rainy as well. And yet, the weather shifted so drastically for the day I spent in the little coastal town of Cefalù. I had been visited by Fortune and the sun was smiling down at me as I inhaled deeply the salty, familiar air of the sea.
Home. The original one. As much as I love the cities, the mountains, the forests, and the lakes, nothing makes me feel the way the sea does. Nostalgia, welcomes, and goodbyes – that’s the sea to me. And so, with the sun, the blue skies, and the aqua tones of the Mediterranean, I felt instantly comfortable in Cefalù within the very first hour.
It only takes 40 minutes to get there by train from Palermo, so it can easily be done as a day trip. However, I was moving on to Taormina after this, so I spent one night in Cefalù at the Baronetto B&B (which I highly recommend – it’s located just a five-minute walk from the station, and about fifteen minutes from the old town).
I had pizza for lunch staring at the ocean at Bottega Tivitti, a spot recommended by my accomodation. Sitting there, I listened to the soft murmur of the waves, tipping the scale as the tide was going up. Afterward, I walked along the beach, taking in the view of the historic old town of Cefalù from afar, protected in the background by La Rocca – the massive limestone cliff towering 270 meters over the town that I would climb later on.
Walking out to the pier, I got sprinkled by the sea spray and observed the houses built right onto the edge. They were clearly lived in, with clothes hanging from lines – clothes I could not imagine would ever fully dry. The buildings looked decrepit in their own right, exhibiting that ancient, spent look with pride, much like Palermo. They have survived the roughness and unpredictability of the sea year after year, after all.
I thought about what it would be like to live there. The constant talk of the sea in your ear, the singing of the seagulls. On such a sunny day it looked lovely, but what about a stormy day? Then again, this is the Mediterranean -a much more passive body of water than what I grew up with on the Portuguese Atlantic coast.
The old town itself is picturesque, lined with little galleries that tempted me so. The streets are intimate, narrow, and decorated with beautifully painted ceramic vases.
I also visited the Duomo di Cefalù, of course – it’s a must. Even if you’ve already seen the marvelous Byzantine mosaics of the Palatine Chapel in Palermo, come here at least for the views from the rooftop, looking out over the red-tiled roofs of the houses surrounding it.
And then, I climbed La Rocca.
It was quite a physical effort for sure. At some points it gets incredibly steep, and I was wearing jeans, carrying simply too many clothes, and not enough water! But going up, you pass through historical ruins of ancient defensive walls, the 5th-century BC Temple of Diana, and finally, the remnants of the Norman castle as you reach the peak. Climbing up, and to the the past… how interesting.
The views from the top are nothing short of spectacular. Once again, I found myself thanking Mother Nature for the beautiful weather, which was absolutely perfect for the climb. It is something I would definitely not recommend doing in the peak heat of summer, unless you go very early or very late in the evening -I can only imagine the view is even more beautiful at twilight.
Coming back down from La Rocca, I treated myself to a drink and a little cannolo in one of the cafes in the piazza right in front of the Duomo, taking full advantage of the remaining sun. The warmth was weakening, though, so I ended up grabbing some snacks and a salad for dinner to eat back at my hotel.
I wouldn’t see the sun again for another two days… but that will come in the next posts.
Love,
Nic
P.S: The links below are affiliate links. This means if you click through and decide to make a purchase, I may gain a small commission. This is not sponsored and it’s based on my personal experience.
Where I stayed in Cefalù: Book here: Baronetto B&B . Affordable, clean adn spacious rooms, and a great location, stunning rooms.
The Winged Bone 