Taormina: Sicily’s Manicured Exception (and the Quirkiest Bar in Castelmola)

I have been writing about how in Sicily I noticed a refusal for curating places for the eye of the outsider. Palermo, Agrigento, Cefalu and later Catania are rough around the edges, but feel real, authentic and lived. Taormina is was the exception to the rule. Known to attract those with deeper pockets, and having … Continue reading Taormina: Sicily’s Manicured Exception (and the Quirkiest Bar in Castelmola)

Palermo: the beautiful and unapologetic onion

On my first morning in Palermo, I woke to the song of the seagulls. Lovely, right? That was immediately followed by the aggressive, rhythmic crunch of breaking glass -the true anthem of the Sicilian trash truck. Even in a "quiet" residential area, Palermo cannot help itself; it is a city that lives out loud. That … Continue reading Palermo: the beautiful and unapologetic onion