Sometimes I have a good laugh reading people’s reviews. In one of the churches I visited in Palermo, someone had given it 1 star in Google Reviews, saying “Isn’t there anything else to do in Palermo besides visiting Churches?”. Oh that made me giggle.
When I travel and I look at the people around me I like to imagine why they have decided to visit that place, out of every single other place they could have visited. Convenience? Affordability? Instagram famous destination? Actual cultural, historical interest? Is it the food? Whatever is the reason, I’m always curious. That there has been some research at least behind it – and I wonder – if you’re not in Palermo for the churches, why did you even come in the first place?
Let me explain, I’m not attempting to be snobbish. One of the things that attracted me to Palermo was the cultural diversity in its architecture. Sicily, as an island that welcomed many of the great empires in these parts of the world, is full of that unique richness that some governments (cough cough) are still not able to understand in present days – the wealth that comes from diversity, from tolerance, from difference.
The churches in Palermo are perhaps where this clash of cultures can be better witnessed – perhaps because luckily, despite the different religions, beliefs and ways of living, these were kept intact, but modified, adapted, to the times, becoming a treasure box that allows us to look into the past – much like Dumbledore’s little memory pond.
In total, I visited seven (yes, seven) churches. Or perhaps I should be more accurate and say five. One was a chapel and the other a cathedral. I do not regret visiting any of them – all were unique and splending in their own way.
The Church of Martorana is centuries layered in gold. At first glance, it may look Baroque, but it’s actually one of the most pure Byzantine interiors in Italy, covered in shimmering mosaics that reflect light delicately in the gold, demanding that you feel as if you’ve just stepped in sacred lands. This is a perfect example of Palermo’s identity – a Norman structure, Byzantine art, and later Baroque drama.
Santa Caterina d’Alessandria – prepare your tastebuds because this visit comes with a sweet treat. The drama here is so intense, it’s theatrical and yet, it feels pure. White marble and pastel tones, bouncing everywhere. It’s indulgent, it’s rich and it forces the figure of heaven on you. And the monastery is the contrast – everything darkens, with the quiet corridors, restrained lives, surprisingly gentle rooms, almost made me ache for that simple life. And a stop in the covent bakery is a must – the cannoli are made fresh, with the original recipe. Get yourself one, sit in the stunning courtyard, and let yourself slow down.
Let’s change gears – for that you’ve got San Cataldo church. The opposite of the excess of the two previous ones. It’s stark, blunt, austere. The iconic red domes feel closer to North Africa than Italy, reminding you that Palermo once sat at the crossroads of the Islamic world and Norman rule. But the Normans… they were open to the aesthetics of others, and this is a perfect example of that, with the muslim influence very clear in the lines of this church.
But let’s get back to shouting. If Cataldo was about restraint, you will stand in front of Case Professa and think the same. The exterior is simple, bare. Almost boring. And yet, once you enter, it slaps you in the face in the most incredible way. This is a full Jesuit Brroque spectacle. It borders on excess. Most times, Palermo does not do subtle. It’s loud.
Now, what about Palermo’s Cathedral? This isn’t about interesting interiors… it’s about the views from its rooftops. From there, you can admire the different layers of Palermo – the domes, the mountains, the sea, the chaos.
The Palatine Chapel is entry-only through the Palazzo… I waited for the Sunday mass to be over before being allowed to go in. The singling of a bell announced it. This is really where the true coexistence of Byzantine, islamic features and norman structure really happens with perfect harmony. It’s small in size, but great in artistic value. It’s intricate, hypnotic, unreal. It made me feel I was inside a kaleidoscope in the best way.
Finally, one of my favourite little places (even though I do think paying an entrance ticket of 8 euros was excessive) is San Giovanni degli Eremiti. Why? Because this is where everything slows down. You’re not visiting a church, but the outlines of one – it feels like ruins, but the red domes stand out again, the cloisters are quiet. It’s not about decoration, but instead about its absence. How the gardens take central stage, as if in the end nature just ends up taking over. Just keep this one for a sunny day.
So, do you see? Do you see how there is something so unique and compelling about every single one of them? If you are in Palermo to understand it, I don’t believe you can skip the Churches. You might not want to visit them all… but visit a few at least. I definitely also would not suggest you do it all in one day – I certainly did not.
And yet, there was one more I wanted to visit. Monreale was on my list. Not in Palermo, but supposedly just a short bus ride away… but let me tell you. Palermo doesn’t cater. And I suppose experiencing Palermo was also going through the incredibly painful experience of waiting for a bus that never comes.
This was on my last full day in Palermo. I was not in a good mood. I wrote in my mini essay that I was out of sorts, and that day was really when my nervous system broke. I was tired, and it was raining. Not a little, a lot. I thought about just staying in bed, but I pushed through. I really wanted to make it to Monreale, visiting the wonderful Cathedral. I had also already bought the bus tickets.
So I made my way to Plaza di Independenza, where I was meant to get the bus. Google Maps said there was a bus at 9:10am and my plan was to get on that one. I checked at the bus stop – I was in the right place. Due to the awful traffic, I was alreayd expecting a delay. The bus stop was just by one of the busiest roads, and many tourist and school buses were also stopping there, meaning I had to constantly move around to let children and groups of people pass – always having my umbrella open and standing as there was no place to sit.
When it was 9:30am, I looked again at the sign, which actually stated the bus would come every 75 minutes… that was crazy. But I had no other plans that day. So I waited. I felt a little better when other tourists clearly with the same goals appeared. I wasn’t crazy – this was the place. But things really started to get annoying when random men kept coming over – they knew we were waiting for the bus to Monreale, so they were selling their taxi services. No ID, nothing. As a solo traveller, I know I have to be careful with this – plus I didn’t want to be scammed. Being told a price and then being asked for another. So I kept ignoring them.
For one hour and half I was breathing the fumes of the cars, no bus coming up, getting wet in the rain, constantly listening to the blabber of these taxi drivers or whatever. It was 10:30am, after waiting for almost 2 hours, that I decided to give up.
Yes, I could have called a taxi. I could have investigated if there was another way. But I was mentally and physically done. That was the moment I decided – no more churches in Palermo.
And you know what? That is okay. Because being back home I don’t regret that one place I didn’t visit. I’m instead happy I didn’t push through further. Happy that I turned a rainy day into a rest day. Because as much as I love to travel, I must remember to also rest. And rest was important for me to be here, writing about the wonderful things I saw and did in Sicily – that rest gave it time for my experiences to sink in, to become memories, and now stories that I share here with you.
Love, Nic
P.S: The links below are affiliate links. This means if you click through and decide to make a purchas eI may gaina. small commission. This is not sponsored and it’s based on my personal experience.
Where I stayed in Palermo: il Palchetto B&B di Charme e Design. Great location, stunning rooms. Book here.
The Winged Bone 