Bergamo – don’t miss this little gem of Northern Italy

Milan Bergamo is an airport famous for those seeking to visit Milan with low-cost airlines. Just an hour away from the capital of the North of Italy, Bergamo is therefore missed as a place to also stop, sleep in, and explore, and more like a place of departures and arrivals from major European cities. It could have been overlooked by me as well, if it wasn’t from my Milanese friend stating that she thought I’d like Bergamo when I was asking her about other interesting places around Milan.

I had planned to do Milan and Turin and then take a bus to Bergamo. I would then fly back to Lisbon from Milan Bergamo airport. It was just under three hours by bus to get from Turin to Bergamo Bus station. Upon arrival, my impression was terrible. There were so many beggars and people sitting on the floor. I think train and bus stations are likely amongst the most unpleasant places anywhere in the world, but it was quite intimidating in Bergamo, which I wasn’t expecting bearing in mind this is such a small town.

Whilst this was the scenario I found at the train station, the town itself couldn’t be farther from that, as I was about to find out. The city is divided into two parts – Città Alta, or higher city, and Città Bassa, or lower city. I was staying in the lower city, near the train station, in a charming place called Angolo del Poeta.

I got there at around 1:30pm. My room wasn’t ready yet, so I left my suitcase and decided to go out to explore. I was planning on simply going around the lower part of the city and leaving the higher part for the next day since I had booked a free walking tour for the next morning. Well… I still ended up going to the higher part of the city, because I had so much free time, but stopped myself from exploring too much.

I was once again quite lucky with the sunny weather that allowed me to experience Bergamo in its splendour. Whilst in the Lower Town, the medieval narrow streets can be charming, but dark, once you get to the Città Alta, you are greeted with a view of the city that is simply breathtaking.

But that night I was surprised with a message from the tour guide I had booked for the following day saying that I had been the only person signing up for the tour, and as a result, it would be cancelled, as he only did it for a minimum of five people… well, I was indeed disappointed because I could see there was so much history to the place, but now I had no way to learn it, besides doing my own research and reading through the few information plates that you can find.

Surrounded by Venetian walls, the Città Alta is the biggest attraction of Bergamo. Seen in the distance, it is a sight in itself, a conglomerate of imposing medieval structures, surrounded by powerful defensive walls. The sun seems to always bless the place from multiple angles. From inside, you are granted views of the mountains and the lower city. You get to walk on cobblestone streets, with little shops, restaurants and patisseries. I’d say the best way to explore it is to simply let yourself get lost in it, but it’s quite hard to be lost in such a small place, where all the alleys seem to eventually take you in circles or down, back to the lower city.

In the Città Alta, you will immediately notice when you do get to the main points of interest – not only because of the crowds but also because all of them are distinct – the Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe, this is where the main commercial street begins (or ends depending on the direction) but also the point of entry in the Città Alta for many who decide to take the funicular, instead of climbing on foot. Then you have Piazza Vecchia, surrounded by cafes and restaurants, where you’ll be near the most famous attraction, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, a clear mark of Renaissance architecture in Bergamo.

The town was particularly charming when I visited, decorated for Christmas, with all bakeries showcasing candy, cakes, pastries and chocolates for the season. Most tourists were clearly domestic or locals who were enjoying the Christmas entertainment here and there. I was quite tempted to sit at a restaurant in the Città Alta, but it was a Sunday and I quickly realized that not only were the prices a little steep for dishes that I wasn’t sure I’d enjoy, but also the restaurants seemed to be full with families and big groups of friends. This was the weekend before Christmas, so everything was quite busy! I decided to collect some traditional Polenta from a street vendor, and sat outside by a beautiful historical fountain, enjoying the warm meal – I got the polenta with local cheese and mushroom sauce. It was delicious and very warm, ideal for the cold temperature, but I was quickly very full!

Still, I could not resist all the delicious-looking pastries in different patisseries in the Città Alta and had to get a fig and walnut pastry. I gave it a bite and kept it for later when my stomach would be asking for more nourishment.

I ended up closing the day quite early, as there wasn’t much else to do, after walking the entirety of the Città Alta. There was the option to visit the famous Accademia Carrara, an important art gallery, but the price was steep and I was feeling quite tired, so decided to park this option and simply relax for a bit in a café. I also had another walk in the lower city, which was packed with families visiting the Christmas Marks and likely doing their own shopping for Christmas.

The Bed & Breakfast where I was staying was also spacious and had a really nice vibe to it, so I didn’t mind getting some food at the supermarket for my dinner and simply enjoyed some time in the evening reading indoors. Plus, it was getting quite cold!

I’d say staying one night in Bergamo should be enough. I don’t regret having stayed two nights, but as a solo traveller I saw everything pretty quickly, and as I was not dining or drinking out, I had a lot of time left on my hands. Still, it is worth your time, and I think it might even be a great option to stay in as a base to explore nearby places, including Milan, the famous Lake Como, and probably a bit cheaper as well when it comes to the accommodation.

Love, Nic