I don’t know what it is that I adore more about Shinto. The undeniable connection with nature. The Kamis, their presence, their spirits. Or the elevation of animals to sacredness. We’ve spoken about the deer in Nara, from woodland munchers to sacred messengers. We’ve also talked about the looking back rabbit of Uji, the carp in the shrine in Hiroshima. And of course the fox – katsune. We’ve encountered them first in Tokyo at the Nezu Shrine – and now in the world famous Fushimi Inari.
In Japan, I found reserves of energy in my body I didn’t know existed. So I ended up going to Fushimi Inari twice – the first time, at dusk, on my way back from Uji, and the second time in the next morning.
Fushimi Inari is probably one of the most famous attractions in all of Japan. Even if people don’t know what it is, an image of it immediately evokes the image of the Japanese island. The thousands of Torii gates that line up the paths to Mount Inari make great photography, and therefore it’s likely one of the most Instagramable places where people want to get that shot where they look all alone in the most famous attraction of Japan.
Surprise, surprise – Fushimi Inari wasn’t created to be a backdrop for your travels to Japan. And apologies if I do sound a little tough, but the number of tourists coming with tripods to take the perfect shot and attempting to make everyone wait before passing through, was truly getting on my nerves. Mind me – it was not a quick photo. It was “we can’t have anyone else in the photo, we came with a tripod and a timer, and a coupel change of clothes”. So, allow me to call out those who continue to visit places – and sacred places – to feed their own egos. Or, their actual social media feeds.
Let’s focus on the incredible history and symbology of Fushimi Inari. was built in 711 CE, even before Kyoto was capital – but when it the city was promoted to capital in 794 CE the shrine started to get imperial patronage…this means it’s been in Mount Inari for 1,300 years – yes, way before Internet was a thing.
The shrine is one of many dedicated to Inari, the Shinto Kami of rice. Bear in mind rice equals wealth, and therefore Inari evolved throughout the centuries into a patron of prosperity, business success, industry, and even fertility.
There are now over 10,000 Torii gates – donated by individuals and companies – a prayer for success, each Torii representing a wish of prosperity. The foxes are thought to be Inari’s messengers, which is why you see so many statues of them throughout the shrine. Some will be holding a key (to the rice granary), a jewel (meaning wish fulfilling power), a scroll (knowledge, my personal favourite) or a sheaf of rice.
Climbing Inari was yet another transcendent experience. It is physically hard, even if you practice cardio often. With every step you take, the vermillion of the Torii follows you, signaling the entrance to many spiritual, sacred realms, and warding off evil. At night I was guided by the dim lights, red all around, a protection. During the day, the climb felt crisper, a true pilgrimage. And after passing through those attempting photoshoots in the trail, I was often alone for stretches at the time. The higher up, the less crowded it became. My heart rate would have sped up, my breathing laboured.
I took my time to notice the details of the Torii, admiring the many mini Torii in smaller shrines through the trail, with the foxes dressed up in their bibs. I love foxes – back home people dislike them because the come at night hunting for my parents’ chickens forcing them to always locked them at night; in London, people complain they create a mess by foraging in the trash cans. To me foxes are survivors.Witty, agile, adaptable. I adore catching them at dusk when I’m back home. Shiny, deep black eyes, coats of fire, tales aflame. Stunning animals. Sacred indeed.
Fushimi Inari is one of the only shrines in Kyoto that is open 24 hours. It was my only chance to see a shrine at night, which was part of my decision to go there after Uji. That evening, I only climbed up to the Yotsutsui intersection. Many people only come up here – it’s about midway until the top. Here you are prized with a wonderful view of Kyoto.
The next morning, I did go all the way to the top. And when I got there, exhausted, I looked around and wanted to laugh – maybe a little from weakness. The top is quite anticlimactic. There’s no wonderful view waiting for you – just more torii gates and foxes. This felt like Shinto was winking at me – very philosophical. Life doesn’t always reward effort with spectacle.
As I was descending, I stopped by a little shop and got myself a charm made with Japanese cedar, which I’m keeping at my desk still in its plastic pouch to conserve its wonderful scent. It is one of my favourite souvenirs I got in Japan just because of how much it transports me back to my trip.
As I was just approaching the base, I spotted a black and white cat (if you’ve been reading my posts you know I’m crazy about felines) and managed to take a photo of it with some torii in the background. Cats have historically protected so many places – in Europe particularly from the plague, and in Japan they were used to protect the rice stores and sacred texts from rodents. This cat though definitely didn’t seem like he would even chase a rat if it saw one… it had that air of domesticity only smug city cats have learned to develop.
And I was right. Shortly I came across a little shop selling postcards with original designs… including this cat! The owner is an artist and the cat is hers… and I felt I had encountered a celebrity in the flesh – I know it’s silly but that’s how it felt!
I absolutely loved my visit to Fushimi Inari. It is one of those places that is meant to be seen, to be lived, experienced.
Love, Nic
P.S. The below are affiliate links. This means I may earn a small commission if you decide to purchase or book anything through these links. None of it is sponsored. All my recommendations are based on my lived experience.
Where I stayed in Kyoto: Tune Stay https://booking.tpo.lv/6724knY6
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