Exploring Quito, Ecuador – one of the highest capital cities in the world

When I quit my job to travel in 2024, my initial goal was to spend 4 months in Southeast Asia (which I did) and then travel to South America for another two months. I had everything planned, itinerary, how to get from one place to the other, saved lots of different tours I wanted to book – but the only thing I actually booked was high on my bucket list from a young age – a visit to the Galapagos. After much consideration, I booked it as my Christmas gift of 2023 via Galapatours… but then, I decided not to go through the South America portion of my travels at all.

I was ready to go back to normal life after 4 months in Southeast Asia. I decided to only go to Ecuador since I had already booked the cruise and would lose most of my money if I cancelled it. I knew it was the best decision I’ve made. But life kept surprising me. I arrived in Portugal back from Bali on the 13th of May. I had about a month between my return and my trip now booked to Ecuador. I planned to take a week off to just readjust, and then start my job search, thinking there was no way I would find one so quickly. Oh well… I did. Just a couple days before my trip to Ecuador, I got an offer, which was too good not to accept – in a reputable company, good salary, back in London, a place I was craving to return to – and whilst it was a fixed term contract of 12 months, I felt it was a great opportunity for someone who had just taken a career break. I felt so lucky and privileged. But then, the anxiety came – I would have to go back to London and start from scratch, looking for a new flat. And then the company hiring me needed background checks. Should I cancel my trip to Ecuador to be able to figure this all out?

I experienced such an intense anxiety crisis. What was I doing? Being irresponsible, travelling to Ecuador, when I had so many more serious and pressing issues to attend to? I was pretty much in a panic. But of course decided to go, otherwise, I wouldn’t be writing here about it. And despite feeling stressed for the most part of my trip (I had to take a call at 5am local time in Ecuador for my future employer to be able to verify my identity, and I also had to send lots of documents that thankfully I had scanned and printed at home…), I knew this was going to be the last trip in a while… and it certainly ended up being the last trip of 2024 (not counting the back and forth from London to Lisbon and vice-versa, of course).

I went mid-June and landed in Quito anxious – not just about my new job and my new future reality of moving back to London, but also because I really didn’t know what to expect. Ecuador is the first country I’ve visited in South America, and I was aware that the region isn’t as safe as for instance Southeast Asia. I was spending most of my time there in the Galapagos, which is safe, and I was doing a little cruise, so I’d be always in a group with qualified guides. But I had booked a few days in Quito too.

Ecuador has had a few state of emergency being imposed since 2023, with drug traffic-related crime being a serious issue. I knew there were parts of Quito that I as a tourist should not approach at all, and that petty thievery is common, so even carrying my phone in my hands/neck is something that is not advised. I didn’t even use my camera when exploring the city, which is a shame because it’s so photogenic. But even when locals are warning you about these things… you got to listen! And I did.

But this is really a shame because Quito is a fascinating city.

Quito is one of the highest capital cities in the world, at 2,850 meters above sea level. It’s nestled in the famous Andes Mountains. When you sleep in Quito, know that you are surrounded by 17 volcanic peaks! And of course, as the name of the country suggests, the city is very close to the equatorial line as well.

I stayed at a lovely hotel in the Centro Historico (Old Town) that I can recommend. The link is here: Friends Hotel & Rooftop. After much research, I noted this was the best place to stay for a first visit to the capital. The Centro Historico has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1978, considered one of the best preserved in Latin America, with colonial architecture taking centre stage, particularly with iconic churches such as Compañía de Jesús and San Francisco.

I didn’t have much time in Quito, so I did what I always do and looked for a walking tour. It was only me and another lady on the tour which ended up being in Spanish, which thankfully I understand and speak relatively well.

Basílica del Voto Nacional, the unfinished masterpiece

This neo-Gothic Catholic church is something of a masterpiece. The grandeur is immense and it is one of the largest Catholic new-Gothic basilicas in the Americas. Inspired by European Gothic, it also includes details of Ecuadorian symbolism – most notably its gargoyles. These represent native animals such as iguanas, armadillos and the Galapagos tortoises. Construction began in 1887 under the direction of French architect Emilio Tartier, and it was officially consecrated one hundred years later, in 1988. Legend says the basilica will actually never be completed as its completion would mean the end of the world.

Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesus (Church of the Society of Jesus), the golden child

This is one of the most iconic churches in Quito, known for its gilded interior and breathtaking Baroque architecture. Its interior is covered in gold leaf, showing an opulence similar to those found in Europe. Still, I believe what makes this church even more special is how it has incorporated elements of Moorish and indigenous Ecuadorian artistry. This church was built by the Jesuits between 1605 and 1767, as part of their mission to spread Christianity in the Americas. You aren’t supposed to take photos inside, but I managed to take a couple… (I know this was naughty and atypical behaviour of me).

Tasting some of Quito’s delicacies

In case you don’t know, Guinea Pig is actually the big traditional dish of Ecuador. This was a no for me. I don’t even eat pork or beef, so this wasn’t something I was going to try. But not to worry… there are other things. Our guide took us to a place for ice cream where I tried Naranjilla ice cream. Naranjilla is a local fruit and it is delicious. this is a tropical fruit native to the Andes region and it looks like an orange, but I found the flavour of the ice cream to not be as acidic as it would be if it was in fact an orange – it was sweeter, definitely with a citric tone to it.

I also tried the local empanadas and finally Locro de papas – a very hearty potato soup with cheese and avocado. Honestly, a bit too much for me, so I couldn’t eat the whole thing!

Chocolate Tasting at Yumbus

You can’t go to Ecuador and not do some chocolate tasting – this was basically also included in the tour, and I ended up buying some quality chocolate at this store. And if you are wondering why you should try Ecuatorian chocolate… it’s because this is special. It comes from Arriba cocoa beans, which are considered rare – its flavour isn’t as bitter and has a fruiter taste. The geography of Ecuador also contributes to growing some of the best cocoa beans – there is bright sunshine for most of the year, and the volcanic soils are incredibly rich in nutrients.

Some free visits to Museo Camilo Egas and Antiguo Circulo Militar

These two hidden gems were pointed out by our guide, and so I went there with the lady who had done the tour with me.

The Museo Camilo Vegas is a tiny gallery with some beautiful artwork by Ecuadorian artists. I definitely recommend a visit as it’s also free, and in my opinion, seeing art is a look into the past, the present and the expectations of the future of the country.

Secondly is the visit of the Antiguo Circulo Militar. Here the interest lies in seeing the interior, but bear in mind they didn’t want to let us in. We had to say our guide had told us we could visit, and a lady kept us company, so security was tight. The Antiguo Circulo Militar is a neoclassical jewel. This building served as the military headquarters in the early 20th century and played an important role in fostering camaraderie and cultural bonds among the elitist members of the Ecuadorian Armed Forces. The building has now been repurposed for other cultural and civic functions.