After spending the last weeks exploring cities, temples, museums and archaeological sites, I was very much looking forward to heading South of Thailand and relax on its famous beaches and islands. Thailand offers many choices, and I decided to do a bit of a taster.
A 2-day stay in Koh Samui where I had the spiciest salad of my life
Located east of the Thailand coast, Koh Samui has a little bit for everyone. It suits those looking to party, those who want a safe family-friendly vacation, and those looking for luxury resort stays. Probably not so much for solo travellers like myself, but I’ll touch base on that in a bit.
Because I was exhausted when I got to Koh Samui, I spent the two days relaxing at the beach, going for a swim, and having some nice food. I was glad I had only booked two full days here, as I feel I would have been bored very quickly. There is also a temple you can visit on the island, and some tours that offer some additional activities (perfect if you’re not driving), but personally I had my full of cultural experiences and really needed a break.
I stayed in a location known as the Fishermen’s Village which ended up being a little bit of a disappointment. I sort of judged the book by its cover, by judging the location by its name – I was expecting it to be low-key and more authentic. I did not see a single fisherman ever, and this was also the only place where I was uncomfortable being solo – not because I was feeling unsafe, not at all – but because I soon realised I was surrounded by families, groups of friends and couples. I felt a little self-conscious when dining out, especially when I was getting some strange looks from the waiters when I was saying table for one.
This leads me to what was a very embarrassing moment for me. I asked for a table to have lunch at a restaurant with reasonable prices and a good menu, and the girl wasn’t exactly the nicest when I said ” table for one”. She begrudgingly led me to a table, where I sat, and rapidly noticed I was surrounded by families and couples. To be honest, I felt they wanted to get rid of me as soon as possible, since as a solo, I was probably seen as low profit. I have to say though, in my entire time travelling solo, these situations were very very rare… but I do feel Koh Samui definitely does not cater to the solo traveller, as it doesn’t seem to be as much of a common sighting.
This was for lunch, it was hot, and I wanted something cold. I asked for a green mango salad and noticed the menu had 5 levels of spicy (1-5). I am proud to say that my tolerance to spicy food has increased significantly in the past few years, and after being in South East Asia for two months at that point, I felt comfortable asking for a level two. I thought the level 2 would be just right – not too spicy, but spicy enough for my “whiteness”. Oh well… was I wrong! With my first bite, I thought there was a fire consuming me from within and if I opened my mouth I would be spitting flames. That was by far the most spicy thing I have ever eaten. I started to sweat profusely but tried to keep my cool. I was too proud at that point to show weakness, and because this was far from being the most welcoming place, I also didn’t want to ask for more food. I had been so proud when ordering a level 2, and now I felt I was dying. I proceeded to slowly eat my salad (probably taking a lot more time than they wanted), avoiding the sauce where the spice was concentrated. Eventually, I had to leave a lot on the plate and ended up going to a 7-Eleven for a sandwich. This will always be a very strong memory of Koh Samui, and a good reminder that spicy in South Thailand means a whole different thing from the rest of the country.
As expected, when you get to this part of Thailand, prices are also much higher, so I had to readjust to this. I feel Koh Samui is about to get more expensive as it was announced earlier this year that the new season of White Lotus is being filmed in Thailand, with The Four Seasons in Koh Samui being one of the backdrops.
Krabi & Ao Nang, my personal favourite
Whilst some travellers told me they found Krabi too busy, I absolutely loved it. Firstly, I felt a lot more at ease as a solo traveller, as I could see so many others around me. I loved the long and wide beaches, the amazing night market, the sunsets, and the tiny marine life the ocean would leave temporarily homeless in the sand when the tide lowered. The locals arrive at sunset when the temperatures are bearable and the sun gives away its power to the moon. Families walking leisurely on the beach, children running around, splashing in the little salty puddles, picking up shells and stones, a treasure hunt pretend.
I also adored the place where I stayed, and it was definitely removed from the busiest area of Krabi, without being too far from the main attractions. I stayed at iRest Ao Nang – even though it is a hostel, it also has private rooms, and I ended up paying very little for one of the last private rooms they had – a family room. I had a balcony for myself, lots of space and they always cleaned my room leaving the towels assembled in animal shapes – even though I’m an adult, I always appreciate these small details, and my inner child always smiles. The included breakfast was brilliant, with lots of variety to satisfy both Western and Asian tastes.
Ao Nang’s night market is also fantastic. There were so many options for food, desserts, and souvenirs, and there was always live music and plenty of space to sit. This was one of my favourite night markets in Thailand.
The few days I stayed there, I went for a sunset walk every day. Sunsets in Southeast Asia are definitely something else, and those in Ao Nang were stunning. At some point, after the sun gave away its light, the air turned pink, and I felt such serenity as if I’d been involved in a cloud of candy cotton, and all in life was sweet, light and bearable.
The beaches were also kept so clean, so taken care of here. In Koh Samui, if I ventured outside the hotel area, the beach would be dirty, with an abandoned feel. But not here. In many ways, Thailand has been finding its own strategies to keep tourism sustainable. It has been now for many years a tourism destination, and whilst there are still a lot of malpractices happening (Koh Lipe being a good example of that), I feel the authorities have been paying attention and learning from past mistakes.
A good example (whilst still unfortunate that it exists as an example) is Maya Bay. Before Instagram created the “Instagram crowds”, other media were already causing similar effects. In the movie The Beach (2000), with Leonardo DiCaprio in its lead role, Maya Bay is the beach. The film portrays the idealist backpacker, romanticising the life of the traveller straying away from the touristy activities, seeking instead unique and authentic experiences. Maya Bay is this mysterious and secret place the main characters find, ending up joining some sort of community living hidden away from society. Ironically, Maya Bay had now everything to become a tourist hotspot – clear turquoise waters, the white sand beach, the towering limestone cliffs and the filming location of a famous film, starring the one and only Leo. The crowds were not regulated at all, and at one point, there were over 5,000 visitors per day, which is absolutely insane to think, as the place is very small. Of course, the consequences were soon visible – the corals were damaged, some completely destroyed. Marine life was disrupted, particularly that of the blacktip reef sharks, which are common in the area (and I was able to spot one whilst snorkelling outside of the bay).
Eventually, the Thai authorities took action and closed Maya Bay in June 2018. The closure was going to be temporary, but it ended up being extended indefinitely to allow the ecosystem to fully recover. During this time, conservationists worked hard to rehabilitate the ecosystem and new conservation measures were implemented.
Maya Bay has been open to the public since January 2022 but with strict regulations. The number of visitors is capped, and swimming is not allowed. Boats now dock at the back of the island. The bay is also closed for two months every year, usually from August to September, giving the place a much-needed breather.
I’m glad I got a chance to visit Maya Bay. I did it on an island hopping tour with a reputable company (Phi Phi islands Early Riser). Hopefully, Maya Bay is now an example of good practices to be implemented in many more places in Thailand and in the world. It really saddens me to think that something that I love to do so much – travelling and being a tourist – can cause so much damage to the environment and the local ecosystems. I absolutely don’t mind if my visit is regulated, if I have to pay environmental fees, or if I simply can’t visit, if that’s what it takes to ensure we make efforts to protect the fauna and flora.
The tour is something I recommend as well. Unfortunately, I can’t find the name of the company I used, but make sure you look out for reviews – lots of tourists will write about the experience and if it was sustainable or not. My guide was environmentally conscious, educational and entertaining. He also made sure his makeup was always on point – which I found hilarious if you consider we spent a lot of time going from island to island in a high-speed boat, being splashed with water and wind at all times, including many snorkelling and swimming points. I do admire the effort!
Koh Lanta, the laid-back island
Lanta is a big island with long, wide beaches, but still very undeveloped. I chose to come to Koh Lanta because my last destination in Thailand was Koh Lipe, and let’s say that Lanta was on the way. I only stayed there for two days, in a very nice and quiet place called Serendipity Resort. I absolutely recommend it – you walk for 2 minutes and you are at the beach. You walk for another 2 minutes in the opposite direction and you have a nice and affordable restaurant. Driving a scooter here, not going to lie, would have made my life a lot easier, as I could have explored the island more…but well, I was not going to ride a scooter for the first time in my life abroad. However, if there is a place good to it, it would probably be Koh Lanta for the simple fact that it’s indeed very quiet and, as I mentioned very undeveloped still.
The lady who was taking care of the place was a retired Canadian, and she told me the first time she had come to Koh Lanta they didn’t even have electricity – that was of course twenty years ago, but it made me think about how I would have managed. I supposed twenty years ago, the internet and charging our electronic appliances wasn’t that much of a big deal. But with that heat, living without air con? Remember… without electricity, there wouldn’t be even a fan. Of course, at this point, I didn’t know I was going to have a similar experience much later in my trip when in the Philippines. But that is certainly going to be a story for another time when we get there.
I have to say though Koh Lanta is the place to go for a relaxed holiday. It is a lot more affordable than Koh Samui, Krabi and I’m sure many other famous places such as Phuket, with a very laid-back vibe. It is also perfect for solo travellers – I could see solo travellers hanging around at the beach and in the restaurant, even staying at the bungalows where I was staying. So far, only Koh Samui had been the most unwelcome for a soloist like myself.
Koh Lipe – the Maldives of Thailand… or is it?
It seems to me that Koh Lipe is another case of Maya Bay. Except that, for some reason, no one is stopping the disaster from happening.
I decided to travel to Koh Lipe as I had read about it being a little and still unexplored gem, a place where the number of visitors was controlled, which also explained the premium prices. So I was absolutely shocked when I got there and realised this was far, but really far, from reality.
Koh Lipe is a tiny island, only 2 km long and 1 km wide, which makes it very easy to explore on foot. There are three main beaches – Pattaya Beach, Sunrise Beach and Sunset Beach. The place is renowned for its clear, turquoise waters filled with colourful marine life and corals. However, I’m concerned this won’t last, based on what I saw.
Staying/visiting Koh Lipe is more expensive than anywhere else in Thailand. The accommodation available isn’t cheap and you also have to pay an environmental fee to enter the island (200 Bath, approx. $5). These two factors had me convinced that the number of visitors was actually limited, and the Thai authorities were making sure mass tourism wouldn’t cause a tragedy like it had happened in Maya Bay.
Unfortunately, this couldn’t be farther from the truth. What I saw was an island overcrowded, being overdeveloped with hotels and resorts taking a dangerous amount of space from the beaches itself, with way too much boat traffic.
I also read online there was no traffic on the island, but let me tell you this isn’t true. Granted, you probably don’t see any cars, but there are motorcycles which drive at high speed on the tiny main street of the island, which at first glance seems to be for foot traffic only (it’s not), making it very dangerous. Even the shops didn’t have enough to sustain the crowds. I once went 3x to the same 7-Eleven to get some food, and the shelves were emptied out, without any refill in sight.
The beaches are made small with some resorts taking too much space, and some parts of the sea being completely blocked for boats – boats that are noisy as hell, making it hard for you to have a relaxing time at the beach. Even for a swim, you have to be careful for a boat not to overrun you.
This is such a shame, as Koh Lipe if Koh Lipe Is still beautiful, it was surely even more of a stunning place before all of this happened. I fear no one is controlling the construction on the island, no one is making any proper urban planning, and the number of visitors is not being regulated – nor is the number of boats and tours. I found myself wondering how were they actually spending the environmental fee every single one of these foreigners paid to get in. The place where I stayed was really nice – a hostel with spacious and modern single rooms. I can definitely recommend it though, it’s The Chic Lipe. They warned me there was construction next door – another massive hotel…
I still had a good time on the island, a natural paradise. I did some of the most beautiful snorkelling, coral reefs popping with healthy, fish swimming in an extravaganza of colour and shine. Yet, I could not stop myself asking – for how much longer?
What will be happening to these remaining treasures of marine life? At this pace, humans will continue to be the killers of their own homes. The turquoise waters turned murky, the white sand tarnished with rubbish and oil, the corals bleached and the eventual death and extinction of hundreds of species.
And what about the locals? The fellow human beings who now depend on tourism, and its massification more than anything, and yet suffering its negative consequences as well? A tiny island like Koh Lipe has a limited supply of fresh water. And also limited supplies of food. Where are they living if every tiny piece of land seems to be taken over by the unlimited greed of those with wealth?
I had loved my time in Thailand. I really loved the country and want to go back. I hope I can. But I was still leaving with a bitter taste in my mouth, committed to being the most sustainable tourist I could, and taking essential learning with me – I needed to be more conscious even with my travelling. I needed to ponder and research even more. I needed to find a balance – because I knew if I was helping bring money into places such as these, I knew as well the locals and the environment were suffering from it too. It is a hard, very challenging conundrum. Yet one that is important to keep pondering about.
Love, Nic
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