Whilst the main attraction of Chiang Mai is definitely its temples, one of the best things to do here is to simply allow yourself to wander (with a hat, sunscreen, in the shadow and lots of water) and see where it takes you.
Personally, I wouldn’t call the old city of Chiang Mai charming. It’s an old city because it still sits inside the defensive walls that were built in the 13th century, and you’d find some alleys and old shophouses, but something that blends easily with the modernization of the city. At the time Chiang Mai was a powerful kingdom, and the wall meant not only to protect the city but also to highlight its independent status.
This is to say the wall itself isn’t an attraction, but it helps you understand where it’s more likely to find the more authentic alleyways that often characterise Thai Old Towns. Zig-zagging narrow roads, hidden temples and private gardens, old houses that seem to have been converted into fancy hotels… but you have to really let yourself walk the streets without a plan, or a map, or you wouldn’t come across these places easily. I found the main roads inside the walls to be busy and lacking character.
Galleries and Museums are abundant
I found some interesting shops and galleries, and want to give a shout to Kaew Gallery, a lovely shop with the nicest staff, where you can buy handmade souvenirs and even art, with a full gallery on their top floor.
This isn’t too far from the Three Kings Monument, located in the square that is considered the central point of Chiang Mai. There isn’t really much going on here, but it is important to understand who these three figures are – the monument was erected in memory of the alliance of the three Northern Thai-Lao kings who made a huge contribution to the founding of Chiang Mai. Just behind this statue, you’ll find the Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Centre. If you have some extra time in the city, this is a good place to go to learn more about the history of Chiang Mai. There is also a nice shop and cafe inside, and the air con is definitely very welcome.
When looking for interesting and perhaps slightly different to do here, I came across the Kalm Village Art Centre. This is a fantastic place to visit, spend and even just sit and relax for a bit. Entrance is free; here you’ll find some textiles, furniture and home décor exhibition rooms. The space is meant to “celebrate and explore diverse artistic, cultural and historical subjects where heritage and innovation converse”. There is a library, a café, a restaurant and some shops where you can buy handmade clothing, homewares and souvenirs – the prices are definitely on the higher end, but it’s meant to support the artisans and help the local communities.
Stumbling upon a Flower Festival
There are very few green spaces in Chiang Mai, but one of them, located in one of the corners of the inner wall of the city, is the Buak Hard Public Park. I decided to walk there as I’m always curious about public parks and was really fortunate to find the garden in full bloom, with some adorable decorations as it seemed a flower festival was going on, or had just finished. The orchids in itself were stunning to look at, with some of their flowers being bigger than my hand (and my hands are quite big).
There was a strong kawaii element to it, and I felt I had stepped upon a little dream. The colours of the flowers were also just so bright. The tropical climate is definitely something that doesn’t bother the flora, clearly thriving in warm humidity – the opposite of me.
It was in Chiang Mai that I got my first Thai massage in Thailand. I was a little scared, as I had heard it was a tough one. I was still fighting a cold and my back and neck were hurting furiously. I decided to ask for a Thai massage focused on those two areas. In the end, I thought the masseuse was actually quite gentle, and perhaps all of the stories about the duress of the Thai massage were a little exaggerated. Of course, I would then come to realise that perhaps the massage I got in Chiang Mai was simply a much-tone-down version of what a real Thai massage is. But that story will come later.
Love, Nic
The Winged Bone 