Wildlife spotting at Khao Yai National Park

Sadly the time to say goodbye to Bangkok had come. I was leaving the concrete jungle to visit an actual jungle not too far from the city – in the Khao Yai National Park.

I had never been in a jungle – the kind where Tarzan or Mogli would have lived. Actually stepping into that sort of ecosystem was something of a dream I wasn’t sure I’d be able to make come true – mostly because of my dislike for big bugs, especially the eight-legged ones – spiders. I would be afraid of being bitten by one and it just seems like something true outdoorsy people do – not me. But if you take the spiders out of the equation, I’ve always been passionate about wildlife. Growing up, I enjoyed watching wildlife documentaries on TV, and Biology was always one of my favourite subjects at school, to the point I played around with the idea of pursuing it as a career. Thinking about that makes me smile. How naïve I was back in the day – but also there is a bitterness to this memory. I never pursued something I was truly passionate about because of the lack of employment options, knowing that I would have to just leave those dreams behind. I suppose the good thing about it is that now I can somehow focus on these passions when I travel because I have the means to do it. Writing here is one of those passions as well. Which is why I keep doing it.

As I mentioned in my previous post, I believe travelling awakens in you those interests and parts of your personality that might have been dormant. In the same way, children eventually stop believing in magic, Santa Claus, the Tooth Fairy… often as they grow up they abandon the things that used to excite them.

Well, I think that whatever grabbed your attention as a child is probably something that is still ingrained in you and you were forced to forgo to “act like an adult”. Whether that happened as a teenager, to try to fit in a new group of friends, or because hormones just made you shift your attention to something else,…or you started to work and there was no time to dream, or your family might not have been the most supportive… perhaps there simply wasn’t any way to support those interests financially, and these were not viable as a career, because of how unemployable they might be. I can say all the professions I wanted to follow were absolutely unemployable, especially in the small world I was raised in.

The time I spent travelling was precisely me rejoicing in all of those past reveries of mine – spending time observing and learning about the Asia Elephant in the Elephant Conservation Centre in Laos, and jumping on a chance to get myself in the jungle, and potentially spot some more wildlife. Not in a zoo, or tourist sanctuary – but in their actual habitat.

Khao Yai National Park was the first of its kind in Thailand, established in 1962. It’s one of the largest in the country and it’s part of the larger Dong Phayayen-Khao Forest Complex, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is known for its diverse ecosystem and wildlife, home to over 300 species of birds, but also large mammals like the Asian Elephant, gibbons, deer and even tigers.

The park isn’t too far from Bangkok, about three hours’ drive. I took the train to Pak Chong, the best town to stay overnight when planning a visit to the park if you don’t drive and want to be near the station. I can definitely recommend Pak Chong Central Poshtel – not too far from the station, just across the road from the Night Market and convenience stores. The place is quite modern, clean and comfortable, with lovely staff. Breakfast was also included in the room rate, which is always a plus.

I booked my day tour with Greenleaf. They also have accommodation, but I heard from other fellow tour participants it was really basic. Budget-friendly, but not the place for a good night’s sleep. They picked me up from my hotel of choice (of course if not too far).

I do recommend Greenleaf, the day tour in the jungle was amazing, and it included lunch, and I felt we were constantly being offered snacks too. Beware you can’t get into Khao Yai National Park and go hike on your own – you need a guide, or else you won’t be allowed entrance. This is for the guest’s own protection, but probably even more so to preserve and safeguard the flora and fauna of Khao Yai. Humans have done too much damage already.

The guide was funny, experienced and knowledgeable, having an incredible skill to spot wildlife. He always carried a telescopic lens to help us see it and even took photos of the different animals and birds we spotted with our phones, using the lens as a magnifier. Before getting in the jungle, we were also given leech socks which made the whole thing even more real to me. I definitely didn’t want to get any leeches on me – the thought of it made my skin crawl. Luckily though, as it was dry season, there weren’t many around – but if they were, they wouldn’t be able to attach themselves to us.

This is also one of the reasons why you should always wear long pants and long sleeves when heading out to the jungle – to protect you from the leeches but also bites from other insects, like mosquitoes. Even with insect repellant, when you get into the jungle and start sweating, those little bastards can still get into you. Dengue fever is also a real thing around these parts, so all precautions should be taken. I also found that having long pants and sleeves protects my skin from scratches from thick bushes around us. After all, whilst we are going with a guide in defined paths, the jungle is fierce and you will be pushing branches and sticks around.

I really felt I was in one of those documentaries I used to watch so often as a child, and for some reason stopped doing so as an adult. I felt so lucky with all the wildlife we were able to spot – including not only one but three male Asian elephants roaming around.

My favourite moment was one I could not photograph at all, even if I had special equipment – seeing the gibbons jumping from tree top to tree top, to the point of getting a stiff neck. It was marvellous to see them and hear them, even though they were so far up there, and moving so quickly. Their agility is something we humans can only envy.

I didn’t get to take many photos, as it usually happens on these sorts of tours when you have to focus on your steps and have your senses alert for any sounds, often indicators of wildlife lurking around. Yet, I loved my day in Khao Yai National Park and was quite pleased with my decision to come over there. Whilst it is a popular park, I feel I hadn’t heard much about it – places like Khao Sok National Park get all the attention lately.

I feel Khao Yai gets more attention from the actual wildlife fanatics, particularly those engaged with more serious bird-watching activities. I saw different groups of foreigners carrying enviable cameras with astronomical lenses. This was also an older demographic – I can only hope if I do get to retirement age, I still get to travel and explore interests such as these. Weirdly, I feel my interest in birds increasing as I age.

I will say if you also want to ensure you’re visiting a National Park that is doing everything possible to protect its nature and wildlife, this is the place to go. Sure, you might not be able to just venture on your own – but once again, this is the jungle. It is a dangerous place for those who don’t know it, where you could easily get lost. Plus, unless you are an experienced wildlife professional yourself, it is indeed quite hard to spot the different animals. Having his trained pair of eyes was a massive plus, and my mind was at ease knowing I was complying with all safety measurements – for myself and the habitats of so many species around us.

Love, Nic