Stepping upon Bangkok’s art scene in one of its coolest neighbourhoods, Talat Noi

Sometimes you simply have to let yourself wander to find the things that will truly inspire you. The enchantment might be unique to you, and no one else – but I must agree with the cliché that sometimes travelling is indeed about finding yourself, or at least, it allows space to get to know a part of you that you didn’t know existed or perhaps had been dormant.

Bangkok reminded me of how much I love big cities. I may tire of them sometimes, as I often did in London, but all I need is a break outside of the brick and concrete jungle, to start feeling that itch to go back. I came to terms with it. When I reached Bangkok, the largest metropolitan I had been to since I started my travels in South East Asia, I came to terms that London or another big exciting city would still be in my future. I came to terms that I am someone who desperately needs culture and arts. Who needs to be in a place where the discovery is endless because there is just so much going on. Places where multiple cultures inhabit and evolve in their own microcosmos. Places where I can walk to get what I need, or at least find public transport that opens up the space and removes the claustrophobia that ironically I often get when the newness of the countryside and small-town living is over.

I love places where you can just step upon amazement by accident. When that was unscheduled amazement, outside of the must-visits you had compiled when briefly preparing for that trip. You then find yourself wondering how come you missed this in your planning – only to realise that as it happens with London, Bangkok will have its main attractions, but, more often than not, those must-visit lists lack personalisation. Of course, they’re not wrong – not at all. Must-visits are what they are for a reason, and a good guide if you have limited time. The personalization bit though is important, and unless you find it by researching based on your interests, it often comes to you by the simple act of wondering.  

That’s how I found Talat Noi… and the amazing exhibition spaces at River City Bangkok. And I would say these are must-visits to see the artistic and creative side of the city if it’s something you’re into.

To go on my day tour to Ayutthaya, the meeting point was at the tour company offices, located in River City Bangkok. I had no idea River City Bangkok is a special shopping centre, one dedicated to Art. While I waited for the tour to begin, I ran inside to use the bathroom. Everything was closed – it was early morning – but there were plenty of announcements about the exhibitions taking place in the building, and it immediately caught my attention. A quick Google search made me realise all of those exhibits were free to visit – and so I made the decision that after the tour, I would go back to River City Bangkok. And I did.

What an amazing, brilliant space. I was so thrilled I had come across it, and sure if I was living in Bangkok I’d probably be spending a lot of time there. I perused through the coolest exhibitions, some of them more obscure than others, wishing I would have the money to buy some of that original art, or even a home to decorate it with.

Two exhibitions touched me on a deeper level, and I am now forever a fan of these two artists. The first exhibit I visited was Blackout, by Thai artist Munins. These artworks speak on the most elemental of what it is about being alive, the little moments of joy but also its darkest moments, calling upon the ability to forgive yourself.

The second exhibition that I found incredibly endearing was Basement in Your Soul. Don’t let yourself be fooled by the apparent cuteness of pastel tones of it. I found this collection so dark and yet so relatable. The struggle to keep ourselves afloat when depression takes over when our little mind devils insist on bringing darkness upon us. This is by Thai artist FAHFAHS.

As I stepped out of this fancy complex, full of interesting pieces of art, I wandered around and ended up in the neighbourhood of Talat Noi. By accident, without meaning to, I found myself in one of the oldest and most culturally rich parts of Bangkok, full of some spectacular street art… and lacking the tourist crowds!

I photographed away, before the sun started to set, and then headed back to my accommodation, where I started to read more about that amazing area of Bangkok I had stumbled upon. 

This area is part of what is called large Chinatown – whilst in the past it was a melting pot of different cultures, it was mostly Chinese, which is why we can find here so many old shophouses and temples. The art on the walls really honoured the Chinese heritage of this neighbourhood, and I was sad that I didn’t have time to explore this area properly – a place to go back to when I do eventually go back to Bangkok.

While Talat Noi means “small market”, historically it played an important role in Bangkok’s industrial development, and you can still find quite a few warehouses dedicated to house mechanics and metal workshops. Some of them have been converted into artist’s workshops, and it’s the sort of chaotic mess that really makes my creative gears work.

I felt I had found a little gem in Bangkok – probably the coolest neighbourhood, artistic and modern, whilst keeping its traditional architecture, honouring its heritage through art, and adding colour to walls that would be otherwise deteriorating. I could see there were many interesting places to have some drinks or eat some traditional Chinese food. I was also very surprised by how few tourists I found here, which really made me believe it is still a lesser-known part of Bangkok, off the beaten path, at least for now. I hope the social media crowds don’t get there in waves as it did in other places.

Love, Nic

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