It was probably the hottest day so far during my stay in Bangkok, and the humidity had risen to levels that were simply unbearable to me. I had returned from a half-day tour and was feeling feverish, unsure if I was getting ill or just a heatstroke. But I had to see it – I had to at least take a glance at the Lunar New Year’s celebrations – after all, what were the chances that I could be in what is considered one of the biggest Chinatowns in the world and miss out on their beloved and main traditional celebration of the year?
It was the 10th of February, and the year of the Dragon had started. With the Dragon being one of the most revered creatures of the Chinese zodiac, the atmosphere was ecstatic. Contrary to the West, where Dragons are portrayed as malevolent, vile and violent creatures, in Chinese mythology the Dragon is instead benevolent and auspicious, and a creature that you should admire for it can control the rainfall, typhoons, and floods. It is also a symbol of power and therefore authority – but whilst it inspires respect and reverence, it doesn’t quite foster fear. It is instead an omen to prosperity.
The day was so hot and humid that it absolutely felt a dragon had awoken, and its fiery breath was hitting us all. I called to any energy I had left on my body, and made my way to Yaowarat, as Bangkok’s Chinatown is known locally.
Visiting Bangkok’s Chinatown had been of course a big to do on my list of places to visit, but I had forgotten about the Chinese New Year when planning the trip. It was when I was in Laos that I realised I would be there precisely when the big celebrations were happening. And whilst I was disappointed I wouldn’t be able to visit this vibrant and unique neighbourhood of Bangkok at my own pace, I was also grateful that I could experience something so unique for me in this part of the world.
The name Yaowarat comes from the main artery crossing Chinatown – the road is quite windy as well, and therefore it has been compared to a dragon. Its history dates back to the 18th century and it is of course tied with the Chinese immigration to Thailand.
Over the years, Bangkok’s Chinatown developed into a bustling commercial hub and an important cultural melting pot, where Thai and Chinese cultures have blended, noticeably seen across the many temples and shrines where Chinese architectural elements coexist with Thai influences. Nowadays, this part of Bangkok is a hot tourist attraction, famous for its street food, markets and of course festivals – including the Chinese New Year.
So how could I miss out on seeing a little of what Chinatown has to offer for their biggest celebration of the year? Sadly, I was not there for the famous parade, but honestly not sure how I would have reacted to the crowds. What I did see were hundreds of people in red, the colour of prosperity, with dragon motifs all around.
Symbolising the end of winter and the beginning of Spring, this festival represents renewal, rebirth and of course – as with any New Year celebrations across the globe – new beginnings. This is a time when the Chinese community also honours their ancestors and deities. Some other customs include deep cleaning the house to sweep away any bad luck and make space for good fortune.
Families also get together during this time – as it happens at Christmas for most of us in the Western world – and so there is a lot of movement, with everyone coming from different places to ensure they can spend this special time with their loved ones. The movement is so gigantic that is actually considered the world’s largest annual human migration, and it has a name – Chunyun. This is also the time when consumerism grows exponentially – with new beginnings, there is a need for a new wardrobe, and the celebrations also require the exchange of gifts and the purchase of decorations and food for the festival. This shouldn’t come as a surprise – in the past few years, I have seen more and more Western brands, especially in the Luxury sector, capitalising on this event, with special editions inspired by the Lunar New Year.
One thing that you will see being sold everywhere around this time of the year is red envelopes. These are called Hongbao and they are gifts filled with cash. Once again, it symbolizes good luck and prosperity, benefitting not only the receiver but also the giver.
I could truly feel the positivism that comes with this festival in Yaowarat. Everyone seemed to be brimming with joy, and also hope. Personally, I’ve never been a fan of New Year, or truly any event that marks the passing of time. I suppose that’s because I am often too attached to the past. A wave of nostalgia overtakes me, keeping me under an ocean of memories from childhood times when everything felt more certain. I’m also haunted by the incessant torrent of thoughts that I haven’t done much, or achieved much. At this time, I am unkind to myself. Depression takes me over for a ride, and I feel paralysed. I delay making plans, or maybe I will make half-hearted resolutions that are often too impossible or too easy to achieve. And this is because when I look to the future, I don’t feel like I am looking forward to it – nothing is certain, and it all seems simply too hard, and meaningless. Especially when you are so aware of the current state of affairs in the world.
But…I have been doing it all wrong. I need to start sweeping my mind’s house to get rid of any dusty, nasty thoughts, and instead make space for the positivism, the hopeful blander to come in. Allow them to sit, and offer them a hot beverage. Knowing that whilst the future is scary and uncertain, only I have the control to make myself do the best I can, and at least have an attempt at any sort of happiness. And this doesn’t have to be the happiness others would have expected from me – but my own. After all, it is okay to live a life others don’t understand.
As I write this, I sit in my new home in London. It’s been almost six months now since this day in February. I have a new job, and I am building new routines. So reflecting back on this day, and being reminded of the feelings I got then, is like having the Dragon’s fire in my blood. It motivates me. Motivates me to ignore the negative, anxious thoughts about the past and focus on what I can control in this future – my own well-being and happiness. And that is likely the best way I can give back to the world.
Love,
Nic
The Winged Bone 
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